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22R acting crazy....need help
January 23, 2007
I have a 1989 Toyota pickup truck, 22R 4 cylinder with a 2 barrel carb. and manual transmission. It currently has about 215k miles on it. At 160k the engine was torn down and looked really good so no major changes were made. The problem I?m having is the engine idles really hard, sometimes it shakes pretty violently. I checked the vacuum lines, ignition timing, air filter, pcv valve, thermostatic air cleaner, and sprayed the carb with cleaner. I took off the old egr valve (which was clogged with carbon) and replaced it. I then set the idle speed to the specified 700 rpm. The problem is the engine still bounces around and the engine speed goes up and down between 600 ? 800 rpm, sometimes jumping as much as 60 rpm at a time. When the engine first starts up it runs ok, but once the fast idle cam disengages it runs rough and lopes. When I accelerate it runs ok and does so even for a few seconds after I let off the gas but then it runs rough and lopes. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is?

January 23, 2007#1
Did you check the timing chain (or is it a belt?). Could an internal passage be clogged with carbon as well? Checked for vacuum leaks? Plugs OK and none coated with oil or "odd looking" compared with the others? (Hate to bring up the obvious).

January 24, 2007#2
Hmm - runs funny only at idle or close to idle. Sure sounds like a vacuum leak - but need to check a few things first to narrow it down.

On the 22R - the most common areas for rough, shaky, or odd idle would be:

- Vacuum leaks
- Need of a valve adjustment
- Incorrect ignition timing
- Faulty ignition wires
- Incorrect idle speed
- Fouled plugs
- Stuck choke
- Bad distributor/vacuum advance
- Clogged EGR

If all that checks out - another possible problem area is around the carburator throttle bellcrank - sometimes that will wear out over time and cause the throttle to stick (bellcrank gets cocked in there sideways). That usually causes abnormally high idle instead of the bounching idle that you mentioned - but still worth a look.

Also make sure to look though the sight glass on the front of the carburetor and see if the float level is within the two vertical lines - dont want to miss something easy like that.

If all else fails - you could always spray around the base of the carb, carb itself, vacuum lines, intake manifold, etc. with plain water in a spray bottle or some like to use carb cleaner or WD-40 (though pretty hard on the softer bits). Idea is to temporarily seal vacuum leaks with the liquid - you know when you found the leak when the idle suddenly starts behaving.

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