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Topics - hardyrxp

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1
Hello to all,
Here is a good question for everyone they say now to change your oil with (regular non synthetic oil) every 3k or so.  So my question then is why does it say in my owners manual for my 87 Camry to change the oil every 6k and in my 1990 Honda its says every 7,5k?  This does not make any sense to me there is little difference in the oil from back then and why should I change it every 3k if the owners manual is telling me change it every 6k?  Please advise here and give input as I am confused thanks for your help.
Dave

2
Hello to all,
I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and the clutch plate was worn too low (long story).  So I had the whole kit i.e. clutch, plate, and everything else that comes in kit replaced.  The car ran fine for a while (about 7 months) then one day after driving a long time the clutch would not come out of gear.  After forcing it out of gear it would then would not go back into any gear.  If I would force it into a gear it then would have extreme problems going out of gear.  So I went back to the mechanic who installed the clutch and he sent me to a neighbor mechanic who installed a entire NEW clutch and kit again.  In the end the mechanic did not say what happened or what caused this but they were mad at each other.  So I am guessing here that perhaps some bolt or something was not tightened down or done correctly causing the job to be redone again.  

My ? is what would cause this to happen (described above about not coming out or going into gear)?  Next ? is when you are doing the job of installing a whole clutch kit are there some sensitive bolts/areas that if not done correctly would cause serious problems in the future such as what happened to me?  Please advise me here thanks so much for your help in this matter.  I am sure someone on here knows and has had a similar experience please share.
Dave

3
Hello to all,
I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and have a problem with the idle dropping low when I start the car ONLY after it is extremely hot (been traveling far).  The weird thing is it only does it intermittently and it can easily be fixed by either giving the car a lot of gas (revving up the motor) or turn the car off (or let it conk out) then restart the engine.  Okay so I am giving up here the following is a list of what I have done to fix the problem.....
egr valve replaced & cleaned, egr valve solenoid/modulator inspected and tiny filter replaced, all vacuums lines inspected visually and by hand thoroughly, sensors i.e. tps and numerous others unplugged while the engine was running to test them and make sure they were working properly.  In addition throttle body cleaned thoroughly, pcv/hose/tube cleaned & replaced.   So again I am perplexed here as to what to check next or where to look?  Can someone please help/advise me here and what to look for next and what they thing it might be.  I am sure someone on these forums has had it happen to them or something similar look forward to hearing from you thanks.
Dave

4
Hello to all,
1st off I want to thank everyone on these forums for answering my numerous ?\'s and helping me you guys/girls are the best.  I have another dilemma now here is it...

Solution to my 87 Camry Sagging low in the rear as follows.  I went and took off 2 whole assembly (coil, shock, & strut all together) at the junk yard today off a 91 Camry with 93k ORGINAL WOW got lucky there.

Okay so my ? here is when I disconnect the rear brake line to (drum brakes wheel cylinder) can I leave it hanging upright so it does not leak out or is it better to leave it dripping out in a pan?   The other ? is do I need to bleed the brakes when I reconnect the brake line back and if so how?  I don\'t have a helper just me so please don\'t type for me to have someone pump the brake pedal while I bleed the brakes as I am looking for another way to do this job on my own here.  I was told 3 ways 1 do NOTHING just disconnect then reconnect the brake line (since it is rear brakes) it should be okay and not have air in system.  2nd after disconnecting the brake line squeeze the brake line with vice grips to stop the brake fluid from coming out then reconnect and that is it.  3rd to let the brake line drip into a pan and after reconnecting it back loosen the bleeder screw and let a little air out then repeat steps until air is gone.  Note on the 3rd option they said not to pump the brake pedal as they knew I don\'t have anyone to help me do that.  I am guessing that they are saying by loosening the bleeder screw a couple of times a little that will let air out.  Please advise me which option is best or the CORRECT way to do this job.  Also another ? is should I loosen the bleeder screw a little bit before I disconnect the brake line?  Please advise me here as I have never done this the correct way and I would like to learn this time around thanks.
Dave

5
Hello,
I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and had a problem with the taillights not coming on when the lights are turned on.  The symptom of the problem is as follows.  When the lights are turned on one of the taillights will not light up and the warning light comes on in the instrument panel to let you know.  However the taillights do come on when you hit the brake pedal.  I fixed the problem by running a ground wire from somewhere on the frame to the taillight apparatus in the back of the taillight.  Both taillights when out 1 at a time though and I fixed both by doing the same thing running a ground to the taillight that was not working and was out.  

My question is this to everyone what caused the problem in the 1st place and did I fix it properly?  I ask this because when I was reading the forums it said somewhere that there is a relay for the taillights located in the rear of the car somewhere did not say where though.  So my thinking here is perhaps a relay in the trunk somewhere went bad causing the problem of the taillights not coming on when the headlights are turned on and I did not fix the problem correctly.  Can someone please advise me as to what is the proper fix and the cause of this problem with the taillights not coming on when the headlights are turned on?  Thanks for you help in this matter as I am sure someone on here has gone through this problem and must know the correct answer please advise.
Dave

6
Hello,
I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and the rear of the car is sagging down quite low. I have replaced the shocks they are new and working fine. I am thinking the problem here is the coil springs are sagging down low with the age of the car and perhaps this is a problem with this car please advise me with this question? I would like to know why/what is causing this and how to fix the problem. If indeed it is the coil springs then please advise me if its worth the effort and money of changing out and putting new coil springs on the car it has 170k on it. I think that it would be quite risky to change the coil springs in my car due to age, rust, rust on bolts back there, and taking apart so much of the car in the rear. Again I don\'t know that is why I am here asking so please advise me here as I am sure there is others on here who have had the same problem with the back of the car sagging low. Thanks for your help in advising me here as to what the problem is and what to do to fix the problem.
Dave

7
Hello there,
I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and have a question on what kind of throttle body cleaner to use to clean the throttle body? I ask this because the car is so old and there are many kinds i.e. Deep creek sea foam, throttle body cleaner, and many others. Please advise me on the best one to use as I am afraid of using a brand/kind that might damage the IAC unit. Thanks for your help in this matter.
Dave

8
Hello,
I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed with 169k on it.  The car has a check engine light that comes on after a few minutes of driving it seems to be on a timer as it comes on after a couple of minutes not right away.  I need some help here as this is a older car.  What makes/triggers the check engine light to come on in a 87 Camry and what can I do to find out what is the problem?  Also I might add I saw a diagnosis plug near the battery under the hood I was wondering where can I get a device that will plug in there and let me know what the light means?  I guess I should 1st ask do they make a device like that for such a older diagnosis system on that car?  
Also is there a code system on that car like on my Honda where I can find out what that engine light means? Thanks so much for the help as I have no clue what to do 1st here or how to find out what is going on.
Dave

9
Hello to all I have a 87 Camry 2.0 manual and have the following problem. Only when the car is extremely hot (been driving it a while) and then you turn off engine then try to start it again after 2 minutes or so the car will start right up but the rpm\'s will drop way low to 400 sometimes lower and sound like it will cut off. The problem so far is easily fixed by giving it a lot of gas then driving the car or turning the car off and starting it again. The wired thing is it only does it intermittently not all the time and only when the car is hot and has been driven a lot.
Things I have done to try to fix this. Taken off the EGR and try to clean it. It was so dirty I replaced with new EGR. After replacing the EGR it has only done the same problem 2 times again but not as bad as before replacement of EGR. However it still did it 2 times after replacing EGR which indicates to me there is another problem at hand here. The car also has a new radiator, starter, battery, alternator, thermostat, air filter, belts all, and a new radiator cap. Please advise and help me as to if someone out there on the forums knows what this problem is or has experienced a similar problem and what can be done to fix this problem. Thanks very much for you help.
Dave

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