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Messages - hardyrxp

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Interesting test thanks for your input and help.  I did double check the new distributor it is fine.  The only thing left in which it could be is vaccum leak, fuel pressure regulator, or fuel pump.  Not sure I will wait until the car does the problem again.

Hello there,
Thanks for getting back to me.  No slop that part is okay i cleaned it and put it back together that is fine.  I concur about the fuel with you.  The coil and distrubitor is new and I justed checked them today with ohm meter they are fine.  Running out of ideas or places to look.  Cold injector should not effect the car on hot start.  Vaccum leak perhaps I already looked though everything looks fine.

Okay now I am getting very PERPLEXED HERE.... I tried a lot of stuff still the same problem I am running out of places/things to check on this car. I completed the job of cleaning & replacing the IAC that is NOT THE PROBLEM. The car is still doing the same thing. Now before I do anything else I will be asking many ? \'s on here as I have done a lot of work for NOTHING..... Okay so here is my next suspect and question for you guys/girls. Would a dirty/clogged Fuel Filter cause/make the idle drop (only when car is hot) after starting the car when its hot? If a dirty fuel filter would not cause/make the problem with idle dropping then there is not point in checking/replacing it so please advise me on this question thanks. Next ? to all what do I check next I am running out of ideas on here guys PLEASE HELP.

Interesting I did not think of that.  You are correct I will monitor the situation more and see if it does it again.  The good news is I took apart the entire throttle body, IAC, and TPS.  I ended up replacing the TPS, and since the IAC spring felt a bit stiff I replaced it with another IAC from salvage yard off a 89 Celica (same motor) with 109k that had a much more looser spring.  I am thinking that this spring opens up when the car is hot not sure exactly what it does or purpose.   At any rate with a STIFF spring that means 1 of 2 things its really new and stiff (my car has 170k so that is not option) or 2 something is causing the spring to be stiff.  So I went ahead and replaced it with the IAC with loose spring from celica.  Since that time the car has not acted up and done the starting problem however it has not been hot enough for me to test it either.  It must be hot at least 84f and I must really drive the car  alot.  So hopefully I fixed the problem by doing/replacing all those things.  I will let you know once I can test it when it gets hot enough.  Thanks for your help and if you can think of anything else let me know.

Hello thanks for the info tell me where the fuel pressure regulator is located on my car please if you know.  Do you think I should replace that or test it?  How likely do you think its that?

Thanks very much for the info Yeah I agree 3k is way to soon.  I think with regular oil 5-7k is just fine.

Thanks very much for all that info sounds like 5k for me.

Thanks very much for that info I think i should get the pressure bleeder as I have 3 cars.  Thanks for your help.

Wow thanks for all the info.  I think it was a mistake with some bolts and other things as the 1st mechanic did not seem that good.  The 2nd one was much more experienced so I think he fixed it right as i am driving it now.  Hopeful everything is okay just very strange when it happened to me as I could not get it in or out of any gear.  

Hello to all,
Here is a good question for everyone they say now to change your oil with (regular non synthetic oil) every 3k or so.  So my question then is why does it say in my owners manual for my 87 Camry to change the oil every 6k and in my 1990 Honda its says every 7,5k?  This does not make any sense to me there is little difference in the oil from back then and why should I change it every 3k if the owners manual is telling me change it every 6k?  Please advise here and give input as I am confused thanks for your help.

Hello there,
Thanks for the info what do you think of the one man bleeder kits they sell for like $8?  I was thinking of getting/using one of those and wanted to get your input as to whether they are worth it or useful please advise thanks.

Wow now that is a ANSWER Awesome....  Thanks so much for giving me all that info as it is helpful and bleeding the brakes is new to me.  Do you do the same procedure of bleeding the brakes for front (disc) brakes as the rear?  If any difference please explain thanks.

Oh what happens if you don\'t bleed the brakes will your pedal not work I have been told it will be spongy correct?

Thanks very much for all that info.  Okay the Distributor is new whole unit 1 year old.  Here is my thoughts please concur with me and give me your advise on this.  I have a 90 Honda accord that did this and it was the fuel main relay.  The solder joints were bad only when it got extremely hot outside.  So replacing the fuel main relay was the fix.  Do you think the Toyota might have the same problem or similar?  Do you know if the Toyota has a fuel main relay and if so where is its location?  Please advise me here thanks.

Oh btw I can\'t do the fuel pressure test as I don\'t have the equipment or know how to do that.  Can you advise me as to what the car would do if the fuel pressure regulator would go bad?  Why would the car\'s fuel system work fine when the car is cold and only not work properly when the car is hot?  Please advise me thanks.

I mean the the shifter would get stuck in gear then not come out and if you forced it out of gear then you can\'t get it to go back into gear.

Hello to all,
I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and the clutch plate was worn too low (long story).  So I had the whole kit i.e. clutch, plate, and everything else that comes in kit replaced.  The car ran fine for a while (about 7 months) then one day after driving a long time the clutch would not come out of gear.  After forcing it out of gear it would then would not go back into any gear.  If I would force it into a gear it then would have extreme problems going out of gear.  So I went back to the mechanic who installed the clutch and he sent me to a neighbor mechanic who installed a entire NEW clutch and kit again.  In the end the mechanic did not say what happened or what caused this but they were mad at each other.  So I am guessing here that perhaps some bolt or something was not tightened down or done correctly causing the job to be redone again.  

My ? is what would cause this to happen (described above about not coming out or going into gear)?  Next ? is when you are doing the job of installing a whole clutch kit are there some sensitive bolts/areas that if not done correctly would cause serious problems in the future such as what happened to me?  Please advise me here thanks so much for your help in this matter.  I am sure someone on here knows and has had a similar experience please share.

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